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Play Blues On The Streets Of Paris
A wandering blues man takes us on a tour around Paris, illustrated with video, where he explores the local life and performs in some well known spots.
This famous city of the Eiffel Tower, Moulin Rouge and the Notre Dame Cathedral is also home to an incredibly diverse gathering of humanity battling to live and breathe in the French metropolis.
Lets Play The Blues On The Underground
The Paris subway is the most dense system on the globe, and some of the statistics are impressive. For example, there are more than three hundred stopping points and in the area of Paris there is nowhere more than 400 metres from a station! The system has additionally been a traditional harbor for the 'street singer'. As I'm one those fabulous people, I decided to take a look.
How's It Work?
You might think that you just find a spot and start to play - not all all! That romantic way of thinking has long faded. The 'business' is regulated nowadays and all musicians need to sit an audition ( that's right - a proper one!) with the street music performance department of RATP, the guys that run the metro.
And there's more - each year, the best of the Paris metro buskers are recorded in a professional studio and an album is released for commercial sale to the public - things have changed a lot! Inevitably, the style of the music varies wildly,going from tin whistle blowers to string sections. Several well known French stars were discovered playing here.
Of course, you must adhere to a few rules, such as 'no amplifiers', 'no album sales', etc. I would obviously have to ignore a few of those, I'm afraid to admit. However, in reality nothing ever happens how you want it to ...
And Now For The Big Audition - Help!
I took a train, guitar in hand (sounds similar to a classic blues song, wouldn't you say?) in the Southern part of France and a few hours after that found myself perched on a stool in a tiny room in the offices of the Metro, patiently waiting for the audition to begin. I'd decided that I'd play four of my best and sing my heart out - 'need this license, must get this license' was my unspoken prayer. It was the key to riches beyond my wildest dreams (and they could get very wild.)
It seemed logical that, I thought, my skills would be assessed by a hardened team of pros. This could be tricky. I tinkered with my instrument and waited, almost apprehensively. A man came in, switched on a video camera and exclaimed "Hello - let's hear it then." After that he sat down and appeared to read a magazine! Unphased, I launched into a very loud rendition of Love In Vain from the playing of Robert Johnson, at which he raised an eyebrow. After demanding if I knew something close to modern, to which I said no, he told me that the audition was finished and I would get a letter soon. That was about it.
I took the metro to Montmartre, had a meal with my mother-in-law who lives there, and took the train back down south. Strangely enough, several days after that I got an letter of acceptance and planned my first day performing in the city of Paris.
I Love Paris In The Autumn, When It Glitters...
Sorry to let you down, my friends, but I found that the metro was - a bit of a let down. Well,maybe that's not exactly true. It just wasn't what I hoping for, that's all. I got there one cold day and dived into the nearest station to look for a spot. This was the first error. There are a lot of performers, so it's necessary to turn up ridiculously early to make sure you get a good location. You could say, like property, the buzz word is location, location, location.
Mind you, I saw some excellent stuff while I was looking around, a complete range of musical styles from classical to African drums. In one station crossover access link (these are often very roomy!) I happened upon half a Russian band, complete with a dancer. Of course, the rules put in place by the authorities didn't mean much down here. About seventy five percent of all musicians use amplification and very often sell albums. I can understand this, in my own area, album sales make up fifty per cent of street based income.
One A Story Of Success - Sax Always Sells
Paradoxically, the musicians who make the most money were the ones that didn't get a permit, and don't even play in the traditional places. This is what they do. These people often play a saxophone, or trumpet, or an accordion (of course) and entertain the passengers that use the carriages. I accompanied one of these guys on one of his trips and we chatted a little, as we were soul brothers, so to speak.
He would take a train for five stations, playing jazz saxophone over a backing tape. I found him to be really good at what he did and people liked him, which is a good trick to pull off in any city. He repeated the journey in the opposite direction for 8 hours every day.
What a relief to ascend into fresh air and sunshine at last, reflecting that the life of musician underground is not for me. The second part of the day I spent looking around some other parts of this nice city, and performing a tune or two in some prime locations above ground. Find more details on play blues guitar and acoustic blues guitar lessons.
A Jesuit's Tin Whistle Lesson: Week One